Blue Bonefish, Ambergris Caye Fly Fishing-Belize 2024 Trip Report
9 permit hooked with 4 landed and 1 grand slam…and that was just a single boat on the second day of fishing.
It was a banner day for Bill and me fishing out of Blue Bonefish Lodge on Ambergris Caye this past May.
This is by no means the norm and is, in fact, a rare occurrence in saltwater fishing. But it did happen thanks to our expert guide Roger, who put us in the right place at the right time. This is a once-in-a-lifetime kind of day to be sure.
But, the more shots you make at permit the better your chances, and opportunities can be abundant in Ambergris Caye, Belize.
Belize and the Blue Bonefish Lodge
It’s no secret that Belize is a destination that permit junkies go to get their fix. It’s so good, some never leave. Due to the abundance of fish and the diversity of the fishery, it’s an easily accessible country with something for every fly angler, from the beginner to full-on saltwater addict. With plenty of additional activities, Belize is also a great place for couples and families where not everyone on the trip is looking to spend all day chasing tailers.
The Blue Bonefish Lodge is located on the island of Ambergris Caye, Belize, just south of the town of San Pedro. A few miles away from the busyness of downtown, it is a convenient, yet quiet spot off the beaten path with quick access to some of the best saltwater flats in the Caribbean. This makes for a fantastic destination for newer fly anglers who want to learn the saltwater game and seasoned anglers chasing their next permit, tarpon, or grand slam.
Daily Fishing Journal of the Week
Russ with a first permit!
Duranglers has been hosting trips to Ambergris and the Blue Bonefish Lodge since 2022 and there is a lot that keeps us coming back. 2024 marked our third year of fishing with Chris and the crew at the Blue Bonefish and it was yet again filled with fishing and camaraderie. There were a lot of first catches this year such as the first bonefish, first permit, first tarpon, and even the first grand slam which made the trip extra special for a lot of us.
I, fortunately, remembered to keep somewhat of a daily fishing journal from our crew for this week:
- May 5th – The first day on the water is usually a great opportunity to warm up the saltwater fishing muscles with a pile of bonefish, which is what most of our crew opted to do! Countless bonefish were caught. For better or worse, our boat headed out to chase tarpon and permit oceanside in front of San Pedro for the warmup. The upside to this is that we got tons of shots at some larger permit and tarpon, and I learned a lot in a short amount of time. The downside is that I went home that afternoon with a blank slate, a few looks but not bites. Some might be tempted to get frustrated at the guide, conditions, their cast, fly, etc., but it’s just the process. Saltwater fly fishing is a different animal, and it was my day to get a 0. With the same conditions, same guide, and same spot the following day, a well-known social media influencer who shall not be named put an absolute stud permit in the boat. That’s saltwater fly fishing…
- May 6th – Our whole crew set out in the morning with bigger fish on the brain. Though a handful of bonefish were caught throughout the day, a total 6 permit were landed by our group, with one being an absolute stud. This also was to be the banner day for Bill and me with our guide Roger, and a redemption day after the first for me. We set out first thing looking for rolling tarpon. They weren’t too hard to find when looking for feeding birds dive bombing bait. Within the first half hour, I was able to boat a solid juvenile tarpon. The rest of the morning would give us a handful of solid tarpon bites, but no more hooked or landed. We decided to make a run to a nice bonefish flat to kill a few hours, hooking and landing a solid handful. Within the group of fish, Bill happened to get a much better hook-up and run than our previous bones which would turn out to be a permit once we got it close to the boat. Of course, once the fish saw the boat, and we simultaneously realized what was on the line, the fish took a second run and ‘pop’ of the fly as the line went dead. The vibe of the boat got a little serious for a minute…thankfully it wasn’t our last shot of the day. After another run, Roger was determined to find a feeding school of perm. After 10 minutes of polling, he did. Bill had the first shot at redemption and after a few casts, got the fly right where he needed and he was on! While Bill was waging a solid battle, Roger had me keep an eye on the nervous water for the school, these fish were hungry and feeding hard. Fish to hand for Bill, I was up next. After a little poling, we found the feeding school again and I made the shot. Instant hookup, 30 second run, and then the line went dead. Unbuttoned. It didn’t matter, the school was still there within casting distance. A few more shots, another hookup, line ripping, screaming reel, and all that. Fish to hand. A grand slam for me. But it didn’t end there, for the remainder of the day we hunted this school and headed home with a total of 9 hookups and 4 permit to the boat for the day. Maybe a once-in-a-lifetime afternoon on the saltwater flats, and great to share with a friend.
- May 7th – Another amazing day on the flats. I was able to hook (and lose) one tarpon in the mangroves and then landed a lot of bones. Our group faired a bit better than I did with a larger 60 pound tarpon caught by George, and a few smaller tarpon caught and landed. Chasing cruising bonefish schools was a fantastic opportunity for me to dial in my cast a bit with guide Marco, as well as learning to see and target fish better. One of the great things about the Blue Bonefish Lodge is the amount of knowledge the guides are willing to impart to beginners and advanced anglers alike.
- May 8th – Even more tarpon hooked, jumped, and landed by our group of anglers throughout the morning. Something like 8 or 10 landed which is pretty dang good. A first permit was also hooked and landed by Gerald. I spent the day with Curt looking for bigger permit which we were able to hook 3 with a lot of follows, but unfortunately lost all 3 as well.
- May 9th – Even more tarpon were caught and boated. Honestly, this was a pretty solid year for tarpon fishing around Ambergris, which is awesome in my mind. This would be my last day of fishing as I oped to fish 5 instead of 6 days, and we went on a dedicated permit hunt. While shots were fewer with some weather and clouds moving in, we did get two to the boat. A solid last day
- May 10th – With the weather and clouds moving and changing, fishing was a little tough for our remaining group of anglers. However, tarpon and bones were caught to finish out a solid day of saltwater fishing.
Getting to the Blue Bonefish Lodge
Getting to Belize and the Blue Bonefish Lodge is not overly complicated really. Flying out of our local regional Airport here in Durango on an early AM flight, it has been wild to find myself walking in the doors of the Blue Bonefish in the early afternoon of the same day. Getting to the Florida Keys is a longer jaunt.
The short of my journey each year has been flying out of Durango in the early AM to Dallas with a short layover. Then Dallas to Belize City. Once we touch down, there is a wait of about an hour to get through customs. From there, we head to the Tropic Air counter for a quick 15-minute flight to Ambergris. Though I tend to give myself plenty of lead time on the layover just in case, Tropic Air is ready to get everyone who is there on the next flight available which is nice. They are also great about calling ahead to the Lodge to let them know we are en route. Once landed with luggage in hand, the Lodge vans grabbed us for a 10 minute ride to the lodge for some afternoon snacks and appetizers before dinner.
The Lodge
The Blue Bonefish is a quick 15 minute golf cart ride south of the San Pedro main drag, tucked quietly away. Speaking of which, guests can use lodge golf carts to make a town run, fish on foot, check out local watering holes, grab dinner away from the lodge for the night, or pick up a few souvenirs. It’s a relaxing spot and with the lodge golf carts, it offers anglers access to great fishing and their non-angling partners a great place to hang out and explore the island’s other adventures.
The Lodge and Villa rooms are very nice and comfortable (each with AC) and are great for anglers, couples, or even a family stay (in the Villa). The food is fantastic, celebrating Belizian and Caribbean cuisine, something I look forward to each year. It would be worth your time to see what the lodge and villa looks like on their website. With a small pool to cool off in after a day of fishing and cold beer and non-alcoholic drinks always on hand, its very easy to relax on and off the water.
Chris & Mary Leeman, the owners, are on-site full-time, ensuring every detail is taken care of. With extensive experience in customer experience, lodge management, and guiding fly anglers, every detail of the experience is well thought out. Overall, the Lodge and Guide staff are fantastic and the vacation needs of anglers and non-anglers are well met here. Chris likes to hire a diverse group of guides who each have a slightly different fishing program to give anglers something new each day. The Guides of the Blue Bonefish are positive, very knowledgeable about their fishery, and great at helping newer anglers refine their skills.
The Fishery of Ambergris
Ambergris Caye fly fishing is vast, with something for every saltwater angler: from the fun local bonefish flats to longer boat runs north, south, or east, looking for permit and tarpon. It’s one of the best places on earth to hit the saltwater grand slam. Tarpon, permit, and bonefish are not the only fish around. Schools of jacks can materialize out of deep channels like a pack of TIE Fighters hunting to destroy anything that moves. Hunting barracuda are frequently spotted, lying in wait for a fast-moving meal. Snapper are a common catch on the reef and occasionally on the flats. We also catch the occasional snook, though they are more common through the winter months.
Most fishing will be done from the deck of the classic Yucatan flats panga, there are occasions and opportunities for wade fishing if you want to sneak up on a school of tailing permit. The true beauty of fly fishing in Belize is that beginner saltwater fly anglers can expect to have lots of good shots at bonefish to start, and then head after more difficult targets as they grow in confidence throughout the week.
We like to plan our yearly trip around the new moon phase, as some anglers and guides say it is the best time to target permit on the flats. I am starting to believe there is something to this after this year.
Gear for Belize
One thing about fly fishing in Belize is that you don’t need 3 checked bags full of gear. You can go full-on minimalist if you want…I don’t, but you certainly can! I attempt to split the difference between “minimalism” and “too much”, and land somewhere in the middle of “very prepared”. With The Blue Bonefish’s stocked fly shop’s worth of gear, plenty of flies on hand for purchase, and loaner 8 and 10-weight rods along with spinning gear; your bases will be more than covered should you forget anything. This is not an exhaustive packing list, but it is some things of note that you will want to keep in mind and consider:
Packing List Items of Note
- Polarized Sunglasses – 2 is 1, 1 is none, especially with polarized sunglasses on a saltwater trip. Bring a backup! I prefer copper and brown lenses for the flats. If you can’t see the fish, you can catch the fish. Plus, your eyes stand a better chance of survival with a wayward cast and strong gust of wind.
- Rods– I bring more than I need, but less than I want. That’s just me. If you have one 8wt, you can make it work. 2 full setups in the event of an unfortunate breakage is a good idea. An 8-weight and a 10-weight will cover pretty much any situation and fish you run into in Belize, but if you are limited to something like a 7wt and 9wt, 8wt and 9wt, 9wt and 10wt…you get the idea…you are pretty set. While the lodge has loaner rods, having at least one or two of your own THAT YOU ENJOY CASTING for the week is important. These are not 5 weights for trout, you will feel it if it’s hard to cast for you. As a simplified guideline: 8wt for bonefish, 9wt for permit, 10wt for tarpon. I use and love the 7 and 10 weight Sage Salt R8 fly rods for bones and tarpon. The 8 weight Orvis Helios D fly rod might be the perfect bonefish/permit rod when you may not know what will show up. A 9 weight is what I often have for permit specifically, the last generation Sage SALT HD is my go-to.
Reels – Have trusted reels with a strong, sealed drag that will keep you fishing all week. You want gear good enough that you won’t have to think about it. Hatch Iconics, Ross Evolution R Salt, or Sage ENFORCER reels are some of the best and will stand up to many years of fishing, but for the budget-conscious, the Orvis Hydros is truly hard to beat for the price, while the Redington Behemoth works well for any price-conscious angler. I have seen more than one “trying to save a little money Amazon special” fly reel fall apart after one day on the flats, usually at the worst possible time causing all sorts of frustration for the angler. Inexpensive shouldn’t equal cheap.- Line – A good line can make a mediocre fly rod sing. My preferred all-around saltwater line is the Scientific Anglers Amplitude Grand Slam floater which is also my choice for permit. For just Bonefish, the RIO Bonefish. For Tarpon specifically, the RIO Tarpon. (The SA Magnitude clear tip test is coming soon.) Whatever line you choose, make sure it is a tropical line. I have not yet needed an intermediate line for tarpon, but I hear some people like to have them on hand.
- Leaders/Tippet – Having a handful of 9 or 10-foot 16lb saltwater mono leaders with 12 and 16lb fluorocarbon tippet spools for bonefish and permit will be pretty much all you need. A few 12lb leaders for bones is nice to have, but not necessary. For Tarpon, you can build your own leaders out of 20, 30, 40, or 50lb saltwater mono tippet, and then 40 or 60lb saltwater fluorocarbon shock tippet. I tend to keep it simple and have a quick formula of 40lb butt, tapered to 30lb, tied to 20lb (that can be broken), to 60lb fluoro shock. Depending on the situation this leader will be anywhere from 6′ to 12′
- Fishing License You gotta have one for the week!
- Clothing – You will want clothing that will keep you cool, dry quickly, and protect you from the sun. Shirts, pants, and lightweight hoodies that are SPF 30-50. A buff and sun gloves will keep you covered up from the sun. A lightweight rain jacket can save the day when fishing remains good in a storm. Oh, and socks. Just normal lightweight poly socks will help you throughout the week when your feet start getting hot and crispy on deck if you are not wearing boat shoes.
- Flies – This could be its own blog post. I will give you the simple version and then my additions.
- Bonefish – Simple: 2 dozen, mostly Christmas Island Specials in #6-8 – Additional: You could probably use any popular bonefish fly in #6-8 AS LONG AS IT HAS LEAD EYES. The Christmas Island Special is a favorite because it is tied with lead eyes. Gotchas, Squimps, Crazy Charlies; any with lead eyes. I like to have a few with bead chain, but for most situations, the guides prefer heavier flies.
- Permit – Simple: 1 dozen light and medium-weight shrimp patterns in #2-6 for permit such as Squimps or Mantis Shrimp and half a dozen crab patterns such as an EP crab, Bauer Crab, or Strong Arm Crab – Additional: have more Christmas Island Specials… With lots of schools of smaller permit around, shrimp patterns are something I like to have plenty of. Sydney’s Shrimp was a winner along with Mantis Shrimp, EP Spawning Shrimp, Beech’s Grim Reaper, and RIO’s Participation Trophy are my top choices. For larger permit, crab flies are in order. The Strong Arm Crab is one of my first choices, followed by Rag Head Crabs.
- Tarpon – Simple: 1 dozen tarpon toads, a few in Black/Purple, Chartreuse/White, Chartreuse, Black/Red. Additional: Toads are king, but Baitfish patterns in green, white, blue, purple, and black are good to have on hand. EP Peanut Butters, Salty Mullet, and RIO’s Booze Cruize are my favorites. Have one or two topwater flies as well: Gurglers and Poppers.
- Additional gear – Camera, swimming trunks, evening clothing, Reusable Water Bottle, drybag, flats wading boots, pliers, hook hone, flip flops, and did I mention socks?
Why go with Duranglers?
So why would you want to go on this (or any) trip with Duranglers?
Well, aside from the obvious that Ambergris Caye fly fishing is really fun, we pride ourselves in helping anglers achieve their fly fishing goals. If you are a first-time angler to the salt, or you are an old pro, we at Duranglers like to help make the prep, planning, and logistics process easy when heading out to exotic fishing destinations. The Blue Bonefish Lodge offers great access to some of the best grand slam flats in the world and we are very excited to share a boat with you here. Aside from that, this is currently one of the better-priced hosted saltwater fishing trips you can find. Do a little research and you will find that these prices are pretty fantastic for all that is included.
Chris and the guides and staff at the Blue Bonefish Lodge do a fantastic job of facilitating the ins and outs of the day to keep you fed and comfortable while searching the big vast ocean for fish that often weigh only a few pounds. It’s an incredible feat when you think about it. So where does Duranglers come in?
We are here to help you plan your gear and logistics of getting to and from the lodge of course, but far more than that, we are along with you as a friend and host to help with any of the day-to-day things that arise. We are with you before and during the trip to help with a casting lesson, communication between you and your guides, choosing flies, finding additional adventures throughout your stay, and just chatting and spending time getting to know the fishery. In short, we are along for the ride with you to help in any way we, or I, can!
We are headed back again this year, April 26th-May 2, 2025 and would love for you to join us. Please feel free to call us at the shop at 970-385-4081 or email me regarding this trip at [email protected].
